Located 50 km from the first capital Pliska, Veliki Preslav was the second capital of the First Bulgarian State. It’s impressive ruins and the surrounding peaceful landscapes make it a truly recommended place to visit.
History
The city first arose in the first half of the 9th century, probably during the reign of Khan Omurtag, as a military camp with a fortified palace and garrison.
In 893, as a significant turning point in Bulgarian history, the Preslav Council confirmed Christianity as the official religion and Old Bulgarian as the national language of the country. The council also declared independence from the Byzantine church, promoted enlightenment movements, and elevated Simeon I to the throne of Bulgaria. As part of this transformation, Tsar Boris I announced the transfer of the capital from Pliska to Preslav.
The move of the capital signified a break with Bulgaria’s pagan past and marked the beginning of its transformation into a Christian state. As the new capital, Preslav underwent rapid development, becoming one of Europe’s most impressive cities within less than a century. Its majestic, gold and silver decorated palaces, temples, and representative buildings were connected by streets, squares, and covered galleries, making it worthy to rival Constantinople.
Bulgaria’s Golden Age
In fact, Preslav became the capital of the most powerful state in the region. As a result of the Tsar Simeon’s successful military campaigns, the kingdom’s borders expanded to its greatest territorial extent in history. Bulgaria emerged as the dominant power in Eastern and Southeast Europe, which extended far beyond the battlefield. His reign (893-927) was also marked by an extraordinary flourishing of culture and learning, which would come to be known as the Golden Age of Bulgaria.
The city was home to the esteemed Preslav Literary School, which played a major role in shaping Bulgaria’s cultural identity. King Simeon himself took an active part in literary and educational pursuits, reflecting his own erudition and commitment to the development of Bulgarian culture.
The decline of Veliki Preslav began right after the Golden Age, with the city being captured by Kiev prince Svetoslav in 969 and the whole of Bulgaria falling under Byzantine rule in 971. The city’s name was changed to Ioanopol after Byzantine emperor John I Tzimiskes. During this period, the magnificent former capital gradually turned into a “well-populated city of medium size” according to the Arab geographer Idrisi.
However, during the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, Preslav experienced a brief resurgence as an important administrative and metropolitan hub after the successful uprising of brothers Assen and Peter against Byzantium between 1185 and 1187. This period was short-lived, as the city fell to Ottoman forces led by Ali Pasha in 1388, after which it was renamed Old Istanbul. The name Preslav was reinstated following the Liberation of Bulgaria (1878), but it wasn’t until 1993 that the present day town officially regained its historic name of Veliki Preslav.
The origin of the name “preslav” is purely Bulgarian, it comes from “preslavon” (glorious) while “veliki” (great) was added after the capital became a large and representative city for its time.
The Medieval City
Preslav’s grandeur is still evident today through its impressive ruins. The city was designed with concentric defensive fortress walls, featuring two distinct rings for added security – a first for European architecture, also showcasing advanced engineering skills and strategic planning.
Many parts of the original structure remain visible, including the outlines of the fortress wall, the round eastern tower, northern and southern gates, as well as remnants of the palace and adjacent buildings.
Inner And Outer Cities
In its heyday, Veliki Preslav was protected by two imposing fortress walls that encircled the Outer and Inner Cities. The inner wall, which stood at an impressive height of over 10 meters, formed the citadel – the heart of the city’s power and governance. Archaeological surveys have revealed evidence of a third wall, strategically positioned to fortify the defenses during times of turmoil.
The four cardinal directions were guarded by round towers, while three grand gates – each towering at approximately 14–15 meters high – controlled access from the north, south, and east. The inner fortress wall sheltered an impressive array of buildings that reflected the city’s importance as a center of power, such as the Throne Room and residential palace of the ruler, an elegant basilica reserved for the ruler’s personal worship, a patriarchal complex, an administrative building and the beautiful southern square.
Today, remnants of this greatness remain visible in the preserved section of the inner city wall, spanning 200 acres. Archaeologist Karel Shkorpil unearthed two gates – one likely serving as the main entrance – which grant us a glimpse into the lives of those who once lived and ruled within these walls.
But what truly sets Veliki Preslav apart from other medieval cities is its sophisticated infrastructure. Its streets were lined with well-maintained water supply systems that fed drinking fountains as well as sewage pipes. One of the most fascinating features, however, was the elaborate bathhouse system. Rare for a city during this time period, these baths featured heated pools warmed by hot air circulating through specially designed tunnels and ceramic pipes.
The area between the two fortress walls, the Outer City, was the actual city territory with boyar estates, monasteries, commercial districts and living quarters for common population. Sadly, the ancient walls that once surrounded the Outer City have long since disappeared.
The Round Church
The Round Church, also known as the Golden Church or St. John’s Church, excavated and explored for the first time in 1927, is believed to have been built under the order of King Simeon around 907. It was built outside the Inner City on a high terrace near the river Kamchia. The Round Church is commonly associated with the “new golden church” mentioned in a 10th century Old Bulgarian writing, hence it’s alternative name.
Despite inspired by late Roman temple design, the Round Church is considered one of the most impressive examples of medieval Bulgarian architecture. It features a unique round nave, rectangular narthex with two towers, and an open atrium surrounded by colonnades. The interior decoration was rich, with mosaics, painted ceramic tiles, and carved marble. Although only small parts of this decoration remain today, drawings and inscriptions in Glagolitic and Cyrillic script were found on the stone walls.
The Round Church played a significant role as a cultural center during Christian Bulgaria’s Golden Age. A monastery complex was developed around it, featuring scriptoria (rooms set apart for rewriting manuscripts) and workshops for painting ceramics. The church became a symbol of literary life and artistic culture in medieval Bulgaria. Although it is not a functioning church, it’s frequently used for baptisms and weddings.
In 2007, a monument of Tsar Simeon was unveiled in front of the church to commemorate the 1080th anniversary of his death.
Southern Gate
The Southern Gate is one of the most impressively restored parts of Veliki Preslav. This ancient entrance was once guarded by a massive, falling wooden door known as a cataract, looking like those on the pages of history books or in scenes from knight movies.
The Phiale
The remains of a phiale, a columned arcade around a fountain, are located on the southern square near the southern gate of the Inner City. It is a testament to the high aesthetic standards and town planning concepts of proto-Bulgarian architecture.
The phiale’s construction features impressive stonework and masonry techniques. The interior is lined with big limestone blocks placed in horizontal rows, while the exterior has a slightly trapezium-shaped profile that forms a circular structure with a diameter of 5.8 meters. The surface of the pool was covered with polished marble plates, topped by a colonnade of marble posts supporting the roof. The steady water supply was ensured by a sophisticated system of clay and lead pipes.
Royal Palace Complex
The Royal Palace complex of the Throne Room, the West Palace (presumably living quarters) and two additional buildings to the north and south that enclosed a courtyard with a portico, covering an area of approximately 4 acres on three terraces.
The Western building was constructed in the early 9th century as a residence, later becoming part of the larger palace complex during King Boris’ and later when Veliki Preslav became the capital. Over time, specifically during Kings Simeon and Peter’s rules in the 10th century, the complex underwent further development and took its final shape.
The Throne Room was an integral part of this royal residence, featuring five entrances and a cozy courtyard that served as the center of power for medieval Bulgarian monarchs.
Ruler’s Basilica
The Ruler’s Basilica, located to the east of the royal palatial complex, was the second-largest church in Medieval Southeast Europe after the one in Pliska, the first capital of Bulgaria. Measuring 48 meters long, it was built during the reign of Tsar Boris I or at the beginning of Simeon’s rule. It was dedicated to the Mother of God, protector of the dynasty and capital city. Its construction highlights the architectural achievements of medieval Bulgaria.
A mysterious sarcophagus with the name “Michael” was discovered in a small chapel near the south wall of the church. While some speculate that it may be the grave of Tsar Boris I, who took on the name Michael after baptism, this remains unconfirmed and is likely a legend. The church underwent several reconstructions and additions over the centuries, including during Tsar Peter’s reign when new parts were added. Despite partial destruction in the 11th century, it was rebuilt again in the 12th-13th centuries, with a necropolis being established around it featuring over 300 graves discovered so far.
The Palace (Patriarch) Church
The Palace (Patriarch) Church was one of the biggest churches in Veliki Preslav. Built during the reign of Boris I between 867-870, this three-nave basilica featured massive white stone construction and a unique system of rectangular and semi-round flying buttresses inspired by North Adriatic (Dalmatia) architectural traditions.
The church underwent significant transformations over the centuries. During Tsar Simeon or possibly under Tsar Peter I, it was reconstructed to become the center of the Bulgarian Patriarchate, featuring a second narthex and marble decorations. Although its appearance during the Second Bulgarian Empire is unknown, it is believed that frescoes adorned its walls. Unfortunately, centuries later, lime-pits were dug in the ruins, turning its former magnificence into ordinary building material.
The church was discovered by archaeologists led by Prof. Dimitar Ovcharov between 1976 and 1980.
Veliki Preslav Archaeological Museum
The Veliki Preslav Archaeological Museum, established in 1906, is located 2.5 km to the north of the ruins of a medieval city. Its impressive collection contains over 35,000 objects, with approximately 1,700 pieces on display for visitors.
In connection with Bulgaria’s 1300th anniversary celebration in 1981, the museum was relocated to a new building that meets modern requirements. The spacious and bright museum features several sections that chronologically and thematically present the history of Preslav during the Middle Ages, spanning from the 9th to the 14th century.
The exhibits on display include monuments uncovered during excavations in the medieval city, ornaments from the renowned Preslav gold treasure, a stunning ceramic icon of St. Theodore Stratelates, as well as painted ceramics and household objects that showcase daily life in Preslav. Additionally, visitors can marvel at exquisite samples of Preslav marble architectural details and dozens of inscriptions on stone and ceramics that attest to the city’s literary and educational pursuits during its heyday under Simeon I’s rule.
The highlight of the museum is the treasury, featuring the breathtaking Preslav Gold Treasure, which offers a glimpse into the wealth and splendor of Bulgaria’s Golden Age; however, visitors should note that photography is not permitted in this area to preserve the treasures on display.
Visiting Veliki Preslav
The present day town of Veliki Preslav (BG: Велики Преслав) is located in the northeastern part of Bulgaria, 350 km east of Sofia and halfway between Veliko Tarnovo and Varna. The medieval ruins themselves are situated just outside the modern town, about 3 km south of the downtown area.
Getting to Veliki Preslav is relatively easy, with options including trains on the main railway line Sofia-Varna or bus connections via Shumen. However, driving a car is likely the most convenient way to visit.
Once you arrive in Veliki Preslav, follow the signs from within the town to find your way to the ruins with the adjacent parking and ticket office. Note that the museum is located separately from the ruins, about 2.5 km back towards the town center, with its own designated parking area and ticket office.
What to see nearby
If you’re looking for more things to see in the area, consider visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site Madara Horseman, which is about 45 km from Veliki Preslav. Alternatively, the remains of Bulgaria’s first capital, Pliska, are also just a short drive away at around 50 km.